Men and Make-Up

Men and Make-Up
标准 1510

爱美之心,人皆有之。谁说男士不能使用化妆品?

Men and Make-Up
Adam Fulcher

It is reported that British men spend more money on skin care and grooming than any other European fellas but a dedicated cosmetics range for men still isn't on the cards.

Men have worn make-up for centuries. In ancient times, Celts daubed themselves with woad, during the 18th century gentlemen donned white face power, blusher and in the late 70s and early 80s some British fellas became New Romantics and indulged in a cosmetics frenzy. Despite historical precedence, cosmetic companies are yet to create a comprehensive range of make-up designed especially for men.

The UK male grooming market is the largest in Europe, worth over 500 million a year. Moisturiser is the most frequently bought beauty product by men — 67% of men under 40s admit to moisturising their skin regularly.

However, manufacturers see a huge divide between skin care and makeup. There are products which "guard" against ageing, but no one makes real men's make-up.

Millie, one half of hip make-up brand Ruby & Millie, believes that: "Male grooming is one thing and is tagged as a growth market, but men wearing eye shadow and mascara, I don't think there's going to be an onslaught. Some men will buy make-up and places such as Boots opening 'men only' stores indicates that companies are waiting for the grooming thing to really hit." Boots' two "men only" shops (in Bristol and Edinburgh in which women are of course welcome), offer grooming goodies from a wet shave to a full-on facial but after an initial wave of publicity and promises of more "men only" Boots stores, they've abandoned plans to open more.

Millie claims that make-up for men "is a lifestyle choice. Fashion standards for both men and women have changed drastically over the past few decades. In the 70's, rebellious young men grew out their hair. In the 80's, ear piercing became the rage for radical dudes. And now in the 90's, it seems that nail polish has a chance at becoming the next fashion trend to cross gender lines. Painted nails are just another one of the manifestations of a movement towards androgyne in the music world. Since the late 70's Robert Smith, lead singer for the Cure, has flaunted bright red lipstick and black eyeliner. In the early 80's, Boy George and Adam Ant both became famous for their outlandish make-up. Your local contractor in Newcastle or a plumber isn't going to wear nail varnish. But nail painting is increasing among some University males. If Ruby & Millie were going to do a men's make-up range, it would be marketed to a particular lifestyle." Currently only 1% of Ruby & Millie's customers are men. US company MAC reports that men are increasingly frequenting their counters and shops. MAC make-up consultant Terry Barber says: "Men are looking at magazines more and want to keep up with what they see."

Terry believes the times are changing. "Men are feeling far less awkward now and are more aware of taking care of their skin," he says. "We're moving away from the vanity aspect and men can use products without it being seen as effeminate. MAC treats skin as skin whether it's men's or women's. We've had men come in who want dark, shiny looking eyes, a look which Dolce & Gabbana used on male models. But, there's still a stigma attached to men wearing make-up." Terry can't yet see your average football supporter coming in to stock up on foundations.

Although Ruby & Millie won't be launching a cosmetics range specifically for guys in the near future, companies like Shiseido, Aramis and Clinique do see the virtue — and economic sense — of launching products for men similar to existing women's versions. Clinique recently launched Stop Signs Age Defending Complex and All About Eyes, because — as a spokesperson says: "We found men were borrowing their partners' products. But, the products were given more masculine packaging and names, Stop Signs Age Defending Complex in the women's range is Stop Signs Serum." Guys can't get enough of the stuff — both products are tripping off counters.

Perhaps companies are waiting to see who makes the first move before unleashing their own make-up ranges for men. Last October, Aramis launched Surface in the US (soon to be available in the UK), which is "a collection of self-improvement tools" containing products designed to "enhance the look and feel of the skin". The tool box of products utilises "the latest technology of blue reflectors and mirror spheres" and includes Healthy Look Gel and a Correcting Stick. Similar kits are bound to follow — keep your eyes peeled.

MAC's Terry Barber's Beauty Tips

1. Have a healthy shaving routine. Always shave in the same direction as your beard will almost start to grow in that direction and shave with the same strokes each time you shave. Don't skip from an electric to a wet shave.

2. Find a good basic cleansing product and a lightweight but protective moisturiser.

3. Choose make-up products appropriate to your skin. If a foundation is well chosen and matches your skin correctly then you need only apply with fingertips. If a product is mismatched it will need technical skill to make the product look good. Go for either a foundation or a tinted moisturiser which has a fine pigment and looks "invisible" so you don't see the product sitting on the skin.

Cover-up

No one's perfect so covering-up blemishes, broken veins and redness is essential. Yves Saint Laurent's Touche Eclait with its light reflecting properties is a favourite with make-up artists and its brush applicator makes it easy to apply. Alternatively, Boots Blemish Concealer will also give you a helping hand. Apply by dotting it onto the areas which need coverage, then let the product warm to your skin temperature for 5 minutes before lightly smoothing over.

Foundation

If you want to go the foundation route make sure you have shaved and moisturised before applying. Choose a shade as close to your own skin tone as possible, blending into the jaw line.

Blusher

Dust a minimal amount over the apple of your cheek and gently rub into your skin. Try not to use blushers which sparkle and when choosing a colour, it's best to pick one which is the same tone as your skin when it's naturally flushed.

Eyeliner

Very gently use an eyeliner pencil to circle around the eye. Whether you draw a faint line on the inner or outer rim of your eyelid depends on you, but be warned that it can create a really dramatic look. If it's your first time wearing make-up, your eyes might get a little tearful during early applications.

Mascara

Apply in gentle, thin strokes to upper lashes and a quick, short stroke on lower lashes. Take your time because it can be very tricky to use at first. Above all, be careful not to apply a splodge in one go which can result in eyelashes that look like burnt match sticks. Never use anybody else's mascara, as eye infections are very easy to catch.

An Eyelash Dye Kit

If you're fair, stick to brown lashes but if you're very dark then opt for black. When using the kit, make sure you apply plenty of Vaseline around your eyelashes to prevent the surrounding skin from being dyed as well. The panda eye look is best left to Goths.

Lipsticks

A lip balm is an essential item to have around your person at all times but applying too much several times a day can have a reverse effect so go easy and don't use it unless you need to. For a touch of extra definition try a light coating of lip gloss such as Boots No.7 Lip Gloss.

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  • 来源:外教社 2016-06-28