分餐还是合餐？

Will COVID-19 change the tradition of communal meals in China?

邓晶 | 供稿

In China, communal eating is considered crucial for bonding. In the memories of most Chinese, one of the happiest moments in their lives was seated around a table with families or friends, sharing dishes and piling on food.  

在中国，合餐共食被视为联络感情的重要方式。在大多数中国人的记忆中，人生最快乐的时刻之一便是与家人或朋友围坐在饭桌旁，分享美食，大快朵颐。

In the campaign against the COVID-19 outbreak, this dining tradition has been greatly challenged. Since each diner picks food out of the communal plates on a bite-by-bite basis with their chopsticks, the virus can be transferred from saliva to chopsticks to the dish. What’s worse, diners often serve others with their own eating utensils to express friendliness and care. Several cases of coronavirus are thought to have spread through families when sharing food during the Chinese New Year period.

在抗击新冠病毒的战“疫”中，这一就餐传统受到了极大质疑。由于进餐者每吃完一口都要用自己的筷子从公共餐盘中夹取食物，病毒就会从唾液传到筷子，最后传到餐盘中。更糟的是，为了表达友好和关心，进餐者还常用自己的餐具给他人夹菜。此次疫情中的数个病例都被认为与春节期间的家庭聚餐有关。

Communal eating has thus become a target of both governments and restaurants. Posters have been released by local governments to encourage people to use serving utensils. Concerned about customers being wary of returning to restaurants, the catering industry has willingly joined the campaign. Many restaurants, once allowed to reopen, have immediately sprung into action, particularly offering set meals for one single person.

由此合餐制已然成为政府和餐馆共同针对的对象。地方政府发布宣传海报，鼓励人们使用公勺公筷。餐饮业担心顾客不敢前来就餐，也自愿参与抵制合餐制的运动。一经允许重新营业，许多餐馆立即采取行动，特别推出单人套餐。

These changes are likely to continue and could be solidified by local regulations, as eating together separately can always protect the public health. The measures will shape the traditional mealtime etiquette.

长远来看，鉴于分餐制有利于保护公众健康，此类变化很可能会持续下去，并在地方性法规的支持下不断巩固。这些举措将改变传统餐桌礼仪。

The move away from a traditional cultural practice is ongoing. But as Wang Renxiang, a researcher at the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences said, "In modern times to eat individually may lose some tradition, but it can also mean more opportunities for creating something new in Chinese cuisine and eating habits."

中国社会正在逐渐远离合餐制的传统文化习俗，但也正如中国社科院研究员王仁湘所说，“现代生活中的分餐制可能会使我们丢掉一些传统，但这也意味着有更多的机会创造新的中式菜肴和用餐习惯。”

VOCABULARY

communal - adj. 公用的  

since - conj. 由于

utensil - n. 用具

etiquette - n. 礼仪